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I had been using a Rancilio Silvia for
years, and had modified my Silvia to have outstanding
performance for a single boiler home espresso machine. But I
couldn't froth milk while steaming, and steaming milk upset the
Silvia’s temperature equilibrium, requiring a lengthy period for
the Silvia to recover. I knew that the double boiler concept
was inherently superior to single boiler or single boiler with
heat exchanger machines, but I didn't like various aspects of
two small double boiler machines currently on the market and I
couldn't afford a LaMarzocco 1 group. So I decided to keep my
eyes open for the next best thing - a single boiler heat
exchanger machine intended for commercial service. I didn't
want to go the Isomac route, or buy any of the other e-61
machines since they all had small boilers and rather anemic
heaters by pro machine standards. But I wanted the actively
heated group that comes on the Isomacs, ECMs, etc. I also
wanted a bog honkin boiler and a big honkin heating element and
some damn muscle. So I waited for an Astra Gourmet to come up
for auction on ebay.
I eventually won an auction on a Gourmet GS. A synopsis of my
ebay buying experience is included in the section on buying
experience.
Attributes of the Astra Gourmet series of machines that make
them excellent performers are the group type, boiler and heating
element size, heat exchanger size, pump type, and choice of
hardware. I’ll now address each of these components.
A lot has been written on the CG site, alt.coffee and elsewhere
about the virtues of the actively heated e-61 group. The main
advantage of the e-61 group is that the group is heated during
idle periods by water flowing from the heat exchanger. Hot,
less dense water near the top of the heat exchanger flows
through a delivery pipe into the top of a reservoir within the
group, where it cools. The heavier, cooler water sinks to the
bottom of the reservoir and flows through a return line back to
the heat exchanger, where it is reheated. The convection loop
operates all the time, with no pump or anything. It’s a very
clever way of maintaining group temperature. In addition to the
thermosyphon loop, the Astra group uses 58mm portafilters. 58mm
is very common in pro machines, and it turns out that many
manufacturers use similar enough components that one can
interchange portafilters and brew baskets. Since I particularly
like the LaMarzocco portafilter with Swift / LaMarzocco straight
sided basket, the interchangeability is a definite plus.
The Astra boiler and heating element are huge. The nickel
plated boiler is big enough to store a lot of heat. This means
that the heating and cooling cycle dictated by the commercial
grade Sirai pressurestat lopes along at a slow pace, taking
almost 2 ½ minutes to cool from a boiler pressure of 1.3 bars to
1.1 bars. Heating that mass of water back to 1.3 bars only
takes a few seconds, due to the big heating element. At 2kW,
the heater is about as big as you can practically stick on a 20
Amp 120V circuit. For you math majors, the current draw is 2000
/ 120, or about 16.7 amps. On a 20 amp circuit, that leaves you
just over 3 amps to run the pump and the grinder. The heat
stored within all of that hot water, and the heating element
capacity are really useful when steaming. In order for the hot
water to flash into steam, sufficient energy must be added.
That energy gets supplied by the superheated water, which drops
in temperature as steam is produced. Since the heating element
is such a powerhouse, enough heat gets added so that the whole
system can keep up under continuous duty conditions. Steaming a
latte’s worth of milk takes 18 seconds on my machine. So you
can reasonably pull a shot and steam a pitcher of milk at the
same time. Under conditions of pulling a shot a minute, the
machine has enough power to maintain boiler pressure. Cool,
huh? It’s kind of like having a 200mph car. You don’t need
that muscle all the time, but sometimes you wanna have fun, or
you need a substitute for reduced male function, or you need to
impress someone. Of course if you plan on impressing the cops,
I suggest you do it by inviting them over for coffee and
producing 5 cappas in 5 minutes, rather than by demonstrating
your ability to drive from DC to Orlando in 6 hours.
The heat exchanger is sufficiently large to handle continuous
duty conditions. My dimensional measurements peg the heat
exchanger volume at about 150 cc, or about 3 double shots worth
of volume. My practice is to flush the group for 5 seconds
immediately prior to brewing. Measurements of the brew water
temperature produced by my machine show that the heat exchanger
is large enough to handle the 5 second flush and brew a double
shot per minute continuously, unlike HX machines with smaller
heat exchangers.
In keeping with the pro character of the Gourmet series, my GS
is equipped with a Procon rotary vane pump, driven by an Ulka
motor. The pump is internally adjustable for brew pressure, and
makes a most satisfying rumble when turned on.
Steam and hot water valves are very smooth in operation. The
valves are actuated by turning the knobs, rather than by
flipping a lever or switch. I prefer this method since it
allows easier control of the steam. The valve stems are closed
by spring pressure, which is a very clever feature. This design
makes it impossible to overtighten the stems, and allows the
stems to change length when they become hot, preventing drips
and preventing premature wear of the valve seats and stems.
Hot water is supplied directly from the boiler using boiler
pressure as the driving force. Volume flow rate is impressive
and the water is HOT! Some folks feel that the practice of
using boiler water for the hot water supply results in poor
tasting Americanos and other drinks requiring the addition of
hot water. I personally like this scheme because it allows one
to conveniently flush the boiler, reducing the buildup of scale
producing minerals in the boiler water. I regularly flush a
liter of water from my boiler into a large measuring cup. I
periodically taste the water that comes from both the boiler and
the group. Over the 3 month period that I’ve used this machine
I have not been able to detect any flavor problems with water
from either source.
The Astra Gourmet machines provide lots of steam! The steam
wand on my machine was made from nickel-plated copper, with a
6-hole tip on the end. The nickel plating was worn off of the
tip and end of the wand, so I bought a new wand from Astra. New
wands are now made from stainless steel and feature a 4-hole
tip. The tip is fabulous. I find it very easy to produce
microfoam and my latte art has improved a lot.
Now, I’d like to specifically discuss the Gourmet GS. The Astra
Gourmet is available in semi-auto and auto versions in both
plumbed-in and pourover configurations. Unlike other machines,
the pourover versions also use a rotary vane pump. My machine,
the Astra Gourmet GS, is the semi-auto plumbed-in version. This
configuration is ideal for the gonzo coffeegeek. Since it’s
designed for connection into a pressurized water supply, one
never has to worry about how much water is in the tank, unless
the whole water supply goes tits up. I suppose that might
happen in some of those states that fight over water rights, but
here in mellow Maryland we’s gots plunny of water to waller in.
The fact that the water supply is pressurized to line water
pressure means that there can’t be any steam or air pockets
within the e-61 thermosyphon loop, heat exchanger, or anywhere
inside the guts of the Astra. Such vapor pockets produce
brewing inconsistencies in my Rancilio Silvia and I presume that
they produce similar inconsistencies in other machines whose
internal pressure within the heat exchanger is near atmospheric
pressure when the machine is idling. Brewing with the Astra
semi-auto, or any semi-auto for that matter, commences at the
flip of a switch and stops when you turn the switch off. Thus,
you have total control of brew time.
My Astra has been running continuously for 3 months now (Oct
2004), so I can comment intelligently on its performance. The
brewing performance of the Astra is every bit as good as I had
hoped. The Astra produces unbelievably good espresso with
amazing consistency. Temperature stability of the machine is
very good for a heat exchanger machine. I made measurements of
the brew temperature of my machine in the process of learning to
use it and these measurements show that with proper group
flushing, the machine is capable of producing the same brew
temperature to within 1.5 degrees F, with stability during the
brew process of about 0.6 degree F. By comparison, my PID
controlled Silvia exhibits shot to shot reproducibility of 3.25
Deg. F, with stability during the brew process of 2.4 degrees.
I attribute the improved performance of the Astra to the
actively heated group, plus the large boiler and heat exchanger.
While numbers may seem abstract when it comes to taste, I can
say with certainty that you can taste the improvement. I still
own my Silvia, and the Astra edges it out. The Astra really
shines when compared to heat exchanger machines without actively
heated groups. I recently made temperature measurements of a
3-group machine with non-heated groups, in service at a local
coffee shop. The machine was tested under continuous duty
conditions of brewing a double shot a minute. Shot to shot
reproducibility of this machine was a whopping 11.3 degrees F,
with stability during the shot of 1.5 degrees.
Where the Astra really blows away my PID Silvia is in the
steaming department. It’s just effortless! Ten ounces of milk
in a 20 ounce pitcher froths in 18 seconds to gorgeous microfoam.
And I can froth while brewing, which is a total gas. No more
waiting for the boiler to hit steam temperature for me!
You’ve probably guessed that I really like the machine, and
yeah, you’re pretty damned perceptive. But another really good
reason to buy one is the service provided by Astra, and
particularly that provided by the engineer / owner, Richard
Hourizadeh. As part of my positive ebay buying experience, my
machine arrived at my doorstep pretty much destroyed by UPS.
Once my clear ownership of the machine was established, I set
to work restoring the machine to new condition. Richard was
extremely helpful and forthcoming with information. Later, when
I became interested in optimizing the thermosyphon loop, Richard
once again stepped right up and gave me insight into how the
machine worked that I would never have figured out on my own.
You should just get one of these things because Astra service
rocks.
If you got this far into my review, you also know how the story
is gonna end. Yeah, you’re right. I’m gonna say that you
should definitely buy an Astra Gourmet if you are looking for a
commercial duty, one-group machine. It’s a rock solid
performer, and if you get one you’ll live happily ever after.
If you buy a new machine it’s worth dealing with Astra directly
at
http://www.astramfr.com./ You may save some bucks. |